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Tony's China Blog

My life in China, sometimes teaching English

Friday, June 18, 2004

Medicine

Last week I finally used some of our connections at Xiao Shi to start pursuing the “I want to be a doctor” part of my life. Our connections at that school are numerous, and as much of Chinese society depends on such ‘guanxi,’ it has served us well. We need to be careful asking favors at school, though, because sometimes we aren’t really even looking for a favor, but wind up with one. Like if I ask how much jade should cost, the next thing we know they are trying to arrange the school car to take us to some crazy market and insist on buying it for us. And I didn’t even want jade, I just wanted to know how much it should cost.

But this time, I did want something. Chinese medicine is still very popular here, and I was very curious about how it worked. Allan, our liason who left after a month because he had cancer has returned for two weeks in order to get some Chinese medicine to complement his treatment.

Our friend Andy gave us a book about it before we left, and I read all about the various elements, organs, and energies that are all balanced in a healthy person’s body. The book also described many traditional herbs and how they work to put your body back in balance, but what it lacked was the actual doctors office where Chinese medicine is practiced. We had been to a few pharmacies that were part of a tourist town or museum, but never to an actual working hospital. And I wanted to go.

We were told in passing that one of our co-teacher’s husbands was a Chinese medicine doctor, and I asked her if we could visit him. Of course, she said, and she could come along as our translator! Very exciting. Her English name was Snow.

Snow met us at the front of the large Western hospital that was right next door. This large building is somewhat of a landmark—maybe it was the only building in town more than 6 stories tall until ten years ago? She led us around back to the Chinese medicine hospital. From the outside, this looked like a normal hospital. From the inside, it looked like a normal office building. There was a wide hall, with doors opening into offices. Snow walked down the hall, squinting at the nameplates next to the doors, looking for her husband’s office. She didn’t come here often, clearly. Finally, we found his office, and though he wasn’t around, the door was open and a dozen or so people loitered, standing or sitting in chairs along one wall of the room. There was an observation table against one wall, an older computer that was not turned on, and two desks pushed together facing each other. On one, there was a small piece of equipment to take blood pressure, but it was not used while we were there.

We waited with the rest of the patients for him to come back. Snow told us that he is still building up his client base, and that he specializes in diabetes, which is increasing in China like it is in the rest of the world. His patients generally came in weekly for a quick check up to determine how well their treatment was going and for a new week’s worth of drugs.

The other patients in the room were generally elderly. He strolled in wearing a doctor’s white shirt, but without a stethoscope. He sat down and the crowd of people moved towards him. There was no line but apparently an established order. Patients sat down, gave him their green books which were probably case histories, and he looked at them, took their pulse, and jotted something down in his notebook, something on their case history, and then wrote out a prescription, all by hand. Each patient took less than five minutes. And of course everyone was hovering over their shoulders to see what everyone else had.

The tests in Chinese medicine are very basic and observational. A traditional doctor looks at your tongue, your coloring, and takes your pulse. From this, he can decide what is out of whack in your body and prescribe traditional medicine (mostly plant material, but occasional animal or mineral) to make you feel better.

I wasn’t there solely to observe; I wanted to have my persistent nasal drip checked out. Some say that Chinese medicine is best for those who have problems that are low-level and persistent, and cannot be solved by Western medicine. My ailment fulfilled all three of these criteria.

I watched a few patients being helped, and then I sat down in the chair to face him. I explained my condition. He took my pulse, glanced at my tongue, pondered for just a moment, and then gave me his diagnosis. We had to look it up in our dictionary together. I have too much phlegm! So that was a let down. Of course I do! He asked if I wanted any medicine to help me with it, and of course I did. So he scratched out a prescription and we were on our way.

Downstairs, the hospital had one of the set ups that is so classic to China. I had to take my prescription to one window, where a man added up my herbs on an abacus and told me how much I owed. But I couldn’t pay him. I had to walk down to another window, hand them the piece of paper he had given me, and pay them. But they couldn’t give me my drugs, they could only stamp my prescription and send me to the actual pharmacy, where the pharmacist took my prescription and filled it.

There were five or six pharmacists working in a heavily scented room, with woody, earthy, and ginseng lingering in the air. Behind the counter were a few aisles of large wooden cabinets. Each had numerous drawers, each filled with a different ingredient. A young woman took my prescription and started to fill it. She laid out five one-foot squares of light brown paper on the table and started heaping on my prescription. She’d measure out a few large handfuls of most ingredients on a primitive scale (like the one the blindfolded Justice holds), then scatter them roughly evenly over the five squares. I had ten ingredients in my prescription, including three types of wheat, a wood of some sort, orange peel, bottom-grade ginseng, and some green sticks. When she was finished, she folded up the squares of paper and handed them to me. I was to take them home and make myself some tea.

So that was the visit. To make the tea, in the morning I put the medicine in a pot, cover it with water, then simmer for up to an hour. I strain and drink the dark colored liquid, which tastes bad, and return the solids to the pot. In the evening, I use the same solids for a second batch, which being weaker, tastes slightly better. I have not found any positive effects yet, but it is supposed to take a few weeks to be effective.

posted by Tony  # 10:43 PM
Medicine

Last week I finally used some of our connections at Xiao Shi to start pursuing the “I want to be a doctor” part of my life. Our connections at that school are numerous, and as much of Chinese society depends on such ‘guanxi,’ it has served us well. We need to be careful asking favors at school, though, because sometimes we aren’t really even looking for a favor, but wind up with one. Like if I ask how much jade should cost, the next thing we know they are trying to arrange the school car to take us to some crazy market and insist on buying it for us. And I didn’t even want jade, I just wanted to know how much it should cost.

But this time, I did want something. Chinese medicine is still very popular here, and I was very curious about how it worked. Allan, our liason who left after a month because he had cancer has returned for two weeks in order to get some Chinese medicine to complement his treatment.

Our friend Andy gave us a book about it before we left, and I read all about the various elements, organs, and energies that are all balanced in a healthy person’s body. The book also described many traditional herbs and how they work to put your body back in balance, but what it lacked was the actual doctors office where Chinese medicine is practiced. We had been to a few pharmacies that were part of a tourist town or museum, but never to an actual working hospital. And I wanted to go.

We were told in passing that one of our co-teacher’s husbands was a Chinese medicine doctor, and I asked her if we could visit him. Of course, she said, and she could come along as our translator! Very exciting. Her English name was Snow.

Snow met us at the front of the large Western hospital that was right next door. This large building is somewhat of a landmark—maybe it was the only building in town more than 6 stories tall until ten years ago? She led us around back to the Chinese medicine hospital. From the outside, this looked like a normal hospital. From the inside, it looked like a normal office building. There was a wide hall, with doors opening into offices. Snow walked down the hall, squinting at the nameplates next to the doors, looking for her husband’s office. She didn’t come here often, clearly. Finally, we found his office, and though he wasn’t around, the door was open and a dozen or so people loitered, standing or sitting in chairs along one wall of the room. There was an observation table against one wall, an older computer that was not turned on, and two desks pushed together facing each other. On one, there was a small piece of equipment to take blood pressure, but it was not used while we were there.

We waited with the rest of the patients for him to come back. Snow told us that he is still building up his client base, and that he specializes in diabetes, which is increasing in China like it is in the rest of the world. His patients generally came in weekly for a quick check up to determine how well their treatment was going and for a new week’s worth of drugs.

The other patients in the room were generally elderly. He strolled in wearing a doctor’s white shirt, but without a stethoscope. He sat down and the crowd of people moved towards him. There was no line but apparently an established order. Patients sat down, gave him their green books which were probably case histories, and he looked at them, took their pulse, and jotted something down in his notebook, something on their case history, and then wrote out a prescription, all by hand. Each patient took less than five minutes. And of course everyone was hovering over their shoulders to see what everyone else had.

The tests in Chinese medicine are very basic and observational. A traditional doctor looks at your tongue, your coloring, and takes your pulse. From this, he can decide what is out of whack in your body and prescribe traditional medicine (mostly plant material, but occasional animal or mineral) to make you feel better.

I wasn’t there solely to observe; I wanted to have my persistent nasal drip checked out. Some say that Chinese medicine is best for those who have problems that are low-level and persistent, and cannot be solved by Western medicine. My ailment fulfilled all three of these criteria.

I watched a few patients being helped, and then I sat down in the chair to face him. I explained my condition. He took my pulse, glanced at my tongue, pondered for just a moment, and then gave me his diagnosis. We had to look it up in our dictionary together. I have too much phlegm! So that was a let down. Of course I do! He asked if I wanted any medicine to help me with it, and of course I did. So he scratched out a prescription and we were on our way.

Downstairs, the hospital had one of the set ups that is so classic to China. I had to take my prescription to one window, where a man added up my herbs on an abacus and told me how much I owed. But I couldn’t pay him. I had to walk down to another window, hand them the piece of paper he had given me, and pay them. But they couldn’t give me my drugs, they could only stamp my prescription and send me to the actual pharmacy, where the pharmacist took my prescription and filled it.

There were five or six pharmacists working in a heavily scented room, with woody, earthy, and ginseng lingering in the air. Behind the counter were a few aisles of large wooden cabinets. Each had numerous drawers, each filled with a different ingredient. A young woman took my prescription and started to fill it. She laid out five one-foot squares of light brown paper on the table and started heaping on my prescription. She’d measure out a few large handfuls of most ingredients on a primitive scale (like the one the blindfolded Justice holds), then scatter them roughly evenly over the five squares. I had ten ingredients in my prescription, including three types of wheat, a wood of some sort, orange peel, bottom-grade ginseng, and some green sticks. When she was finished, she folded up the squares of paper and handed them to me. I was to take them home and make myself some tea.

So that was the visit. To make the tea, in the morning I put the medicine in a pot, cover it with water, then simmer for up to an hour. I strain and drink the dark colored liquid, which tastes bad, and return the solids to the pot. In the evening, I use the same solids for a second batch, which being weaker, tastes slightly better. I have not found any positive effects yet, but it is supposed to take a few weeks to be effective.

posted by Tony  # 10:36 PM
Medicine

Last week I finally used some of our connections at Xiao Shi to start pursuing the “I want to be a doctor” part of my life. Our connections at that school are numerous, and as much of Chinese society depends on such ‘guanxi,’ it has served us well. We need to be careful asking favors at school, though, because sometimes we aren’t really even looking for a favor, but wind up with one. Like if I ask how much jade should cost, the next thing we know they are trying to arrange the school car to take us to some crazy market and insist on buying it for us. And I didn’t even want jade, I just wanted to know how much it should cost.

But this time, I did want something. Chinese medicine is still very popular here, and I was very curious about how it worked. Allan, our liason who left after a month because he had cancer has returned for two weeks in order to get some Chinese medicine to complement his treatment.

Our friend Andy gave us a book about it before we left, and I read all about the various elements, organs, and energies that are all balanced in a healthy person’s body. The book also described many traditional herbs and how they work to put your body back in balance, but what it lacked was the actual doctors office where Chinese medicine is practiced. We had been to a few pharmacies that were part of a tourist town or museum, but never to an actual working hospital. And I wanted to go.

We were told in passing that one of our co-teacher’s husbands was a Chinese medicine doctor, and I asked her if we could visit him. Of course, she said, and she could come along as our translator! Very exciting. Her English name was Snow.

Snow met us at the front of the large Western hospital that was right next door. This large building is somewhat of a landmark—maybe it was the only building in town more than 6 stories tall until ten years ago? She led us around back to the Chinese medicine hospital. From the outside, this looked like a normal hospital. From the inside, it looked like a normal office building. There was a wide hall, with doors opening into offices. Snow walked down the hall, squinting at the nameplates next to the doors, looking for her husband’s office. She didn’t come here often, clearly. Finally, we found his office, and though he wasn’t around, the door was open and a dozen or so people loitered, standing or sitting in chairs along one wall of the room. There was an observation table against one wall, an older computer that was not turned on, and two desks pushed together facing each other. On one, there was a small piece of equipment to take blood pressure, but it was not used while we were there.

We waited with the rest of the patients for him to come back. Snow told us that he is still building up his client base, and that he specializes in diabetes, which is increasing in China like it is in the rest of the world. His patients generally came in weekly for a quick check up to determine how well their treatment was going and for a new week’s worth of drugs.

The other patients in the room were generally elderly. He strolled in wearing a doctor’s white shirt, but without a stethoscope. He sat down and the crowd of people moved towards him. There was no line but apparently an established order. Patients sat down, gave him their green books which were probably case histories, and he looked at them, took their pulse, and jotted something down in his notebook, something on their case history, and then wrote out a prescription, all by hand. Each patient took less than five minutes. And of course everyone was hovering over their shoulders to see what everyone else had.

The tests in Chinese medicine are very basic and observational. A traditional doctor looks at your tongue, your coloring, and takes your pulse. From this, he can decide what is out of whack in your body and prescribe traditional medicine (mostly plant material, but occasional animal or mineral) to make you feel better.

I wasn’t there solely to observe; I wanted to have my persistent nasal drip checked out. Some say that Chinese medicine is best for those who have problems that are low-level and persistent, and cannot be solved by Western medicine. My ailment fulfilled all three of these criteria.

I watched a few patients being helped, and then I sat down in the chair to face him. I explained my condition. He took my pulse, glanced at my tongue, pondered for just a moment, and then gave me his diagnosis. We had to look it up in our dictionary together. I have too much phlegm! So that was a let down. Of course I do! He asked if I wanted any medicine to help me with it, and of course I did. So he scratched out a prescription and we were on our way.

Downstairs, the hospital had one of the set ups that is so classic to China. I had to take my prescription to one window, where a man added up my herbs on an abacus and told me how much I owed. But I couldn’t pay him. I had to walk down to another window, hand them the piece of paper he had given me, and pay them. But they couldn’t give me my drugs, they could only stamp my prescription and send me to the actual pharmacy, where the pharmacist took my prescription and filled it.

There were five or six pharmacists working in a heavily scented room, with woody, earthy, and ginseng lingering in the air. Behind the counter were a few aisles of large wooden cabinets. Each had numerous drawers, each filled with a different ingredient. A young woman took my prescription and started to fill it. She laid out five one-foot squares of light brown paper on the table and started heaping on my prescription. She’d measure out a few large handfuls of most ingredients on a primitive scale (like the one the blindfolded Justice holds), then scatter them roughly evenly over the five squares. I had ten ingredients in my prescription, including three types of wheat, a wood of some sort, orange peel, bottom-grade ginseng, and some green sticks. When she was finished, she folded up the squares of paper anput type="hidden" name="name" value="karensun">
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posted by Tony  # 10:36 PM
Medicine

Last week I finally used some of our connections at Xiao Shi to start pursuing the “I want to be a doctor” part of my life. Our connections at that school are numerous, and as much of Chinese society depends on such ‘guanxi,’ it has served us well. We need to be careful asking favors at school, though, because sometimes we aren’t really even looking for a favor, but wind up with one. Like if I ask how much jade should cost, the next thing we know they are trying to arrange the school car to take us to some crazy market and insist on buying it for us. And I didn’t even want jade, I just wanted to know how much it should cost.

But this time, I did want something. Chinese medicine is still very popular here, and I was very curious about how it worked. Allan, our liason who left after a month because he had cancer has returned for two weeks in order to get some Chinese medicine to complement his treatment.

Our friend Andy gave us a book about it before we left, and I read all about the various elements, organs, and energies that are all balanced in a healthy person’s body. The book also described many traditional herbs and how they work to put your body back in balance, but what it lacked was the actual doctors office where Chinese medicine is practiced. We had been to a few pharmacies that were part of a tourist town or museum, but never to an actual working hospital. And I wanted to go.

We were told in passing that one of our co-teacher’s husbands was a Chinese medicine doctor, and I asked her if we could visit him. Of course, she said, and she could come along as our translator! Very exciting. Her English name was Snow.

Snow met us at the front of the large Western hospital that was right next door. This large building is somewhat of a landmark—maybe it was the only building in town more than 6 stories tall until ten years ago? She led us around back to the Chinese medicine hospital. From the outside, this looked like a normal hospital. From the inside, it looked like a normal office building. There was a wide hall, with doors opening into offices. Like most buildings in China, it was clean, but the walls and floor looked dirty with age. Snow walked down the hall, squinting at the nameplates next to the doors, looking for her husband’s office. She didn’t come here often, clearly. Finally, we found his office, and though he wasn’t around, the door was open and a dozen or so people loitered, standing or sitting in chairs along one wall of the room. There was an observation table against one wall, an older computer that was not turned on, and two desks pushed together facing each other. On one, there was a small piece of equipment to take blood pressure, but it was not used while we were there.

We waited with the rest of the patients for him to come back. Snow told us that he is still building up his client base, and that he specializes in diabetes, which is increasing in China like it is in the rest of the world. His patients generally came in weekly for a quick check up to determine how well their treatment was going and for a new week’s worth of drugs.

The other patients in the room were generally elderly. He strolled in wearing a doctor’s white shirt, but without a stethescope. He sat down and the crowd of people moved towards him. There was no line but apparently an established order. Patients sat down, gave him their green books which were probably case histories, and he looked at them, took their pulse, and jotted something down in his notebook, something on their case history, and then wrote out a prescription. Each patient took less than five minutes. And of course everyone was hovering over their shoulders to see what everyone else had and was getting from him.

The tests in Chinese medicine are very basic and observational. A traditional doctor looks at your tongue, your coloring, and takes your pulse. From this, he can decide what is out of whack in your body and prescribe traditional medicine (mostly plant material, but occasional animal or mineral) to make you feel better.

I didn't just want to observe, I also wanted to have my persistent nasal drip checked out. Some say that Chinese medicine is best for those who have problems that are low-level and persistent, and cannot be solved by Western medicine. My ailment fulfilled all three of these criteria.

I watched a few patients being helped, and then I sat down in the chair to face him. I explained my condition. He took my pulse, looked t my tongue for a second, pondered for just a moment, and then gave me his diagnosis. We had to look it up in our dictionary together. I have too much phlegm! So that was a let down, of course I do! He asked if I wanted any medicine to help me with it, and of course I did. So he scratched out a prescription and we were on our way.

Downstairs, the hospital had one of the set ups that is so classic to China. I had to take my prescription to one window, where a man added up my herbs on an abacus and told me how much I owed. But I couldn’t pay him. I had to walk down to another window, hand them the piece of paper he had given me, and pay them. But they couldn’t give me my drugs, they could only stamp my prescription and send me to the actual pharmacy, where the pharmacist took my prescription and filled it.

There were five or six pharmacists working in a heavily scented room, with woody, earthy, and ginseng lingering in the air. There were several aisles of wooden cabnets, each with dozens of drawers, each containing a different ingredient. A young woman took my prescription and started to fill it. She laid out five one-foot squares of light brown paper on the table and started heaping on my prescription. She’d measure out a few large handfuls of most ingredients on a primitive scale (like the one the blindfolded Justice holds), then scatter them roughly evenly over the five squares. I had ten ingredients in my prescription, including three types of wheat, a wood of some sort, orange peel, bottom-grade"MyShoutbox.com - Free Shoutbox!">












posted by Tony  # 10:30 PM

Friday, June 11, 2004

Crab

Every so often I come across a direct contradiction between what I was always told, and the way the Chinese do it. When this occurs, I am torn. But as they say, “When in Rome…” so I normally decide to go with the Chinese way. Like when I let that barber stick a q-tip deep into my ear. Not too many people in China are deaf, and it turned out okay.

This rule was tested the other day at the market, when Erica and I decided that we would like to boil some crabs for dinner. Now my mommy always told me never to buy nor cook dead crabs, but…

At the market there are many vendors selling both live crabs who look miserable with plastic bags tied like ropes around their claws, and, yes, dead crabs. We arbitrarily chose a merchant, a woman who was earnestly pointing out her pile of chopped up crabs, picking up a section of the body and pointing to the meat. She was definitely proud of her product, so we figured we would try it ourselves. We were not convinced that her crabs were dead, but we figured we would go with her, since others had done the same before us.

So we chose four decent-sized crabs (about the size of big Maryland blues) to take home. They were beautiful, gray-brown with two spots half the circumference of a dime on their back that looked like eyes. We went through the same charade that we seem to go through each time we buy shellfish at the market, mishearing the Ningbo accent’s pronunciation of the word ‘10’ as the word ‘4,’ and then being quite surprised that, yes, despite the fact that most stuff here is pretty cheap, seafood can be just as expensive as back home.

But it didn’t break the bank and we went home. Once we got back we became convinced that our crabs were indeed dead, not in part because one’s leg fell off when we took off its binding rubber band. We should have noticed that before. Anyways, it seemed that they had been long dead, so we figured they were supposed to be dead. I boiled and salted some water, and we dropped them in. After boiling them for the normal time, we pulled them out and tried them.

I think I have mentioned before that a rather popular dish here at banquets is salted raw crab. The crabs are brined for I don’t know how long, and then chopped and served in pieces. People dip them in vinegar and suck the briny goop out of the shells. I am not a fan, but Erica doesn’t mind them. The more coveted crabs are the pregnant females, who have a large number of orange eggs inside their shell.

The crabs we had just purchased were just such crabs. They had been extremely heavily salted and were not supposed to be cooked. Well, though they were really, really salty, they were dinner, and we ate them. The vinegar came out early, and we suffered through one crab a piece. Realize that no one ever eats a whole salted crab when they are served at a banquet; maybe some one will eat two or three sections, but rarely.

I gave up after one, my mouth rough and raw from the brine, my fingers stinging from the salt that had worked its way into the tiny cuts no one ever notices until in such a situation. Erica kept eating, and then got mad at me for giving up after one. “I wouldn’t have finished my second crab if I knew you weren’t going to do it!” she complained. I couldn’t.

Needless to say, we spent the rest of the night drinking water and laughing at our idiocy

posted by Tony  # 11:41 PM

Thursday, June 10, 2004

KFC

It is probably news to few that KFC is huge in China. PepsiCo or whatever that company they spun off that is just their restaurants has done a very good job of marketing KFC here in China. Our town has a Pizza Hut (maybe two), but the only other international chains here are KFC and McDonalds, and they go head to head . I once heard that KFC makes more money in China than it does in the States. This might not be true (a brief Google search didn’t confirm it), but there are over 1,000 KFCs here, and they serve burgers and fries along with their fried chicken. Sadly, they don’t sell biscuits. Less sadly, their saccharine coleslaw and bland potato salad aren’t on the menu, either. In fact, none of the sides are.

We had intended to avoid KFC under my general don’t-patronize-American-restaurants-while-abroad rule, but after we spent some time here, we realized that going to KFC is actually a very Chinese thing to do. We meet with (literally) two friends of a friend of a friend of a friend every few weeks, Yvonne and Cecily. These two women are students in Ningbo, and are very interesting to talk to, to learn more about our city. When we asked them what they did for fun, they didn’t have much to offer. Both shrugged and said, “We go shopping, or we go to KFC.” KFC is one of the few places here where young people can go after dark and linger. Or before dark, for that matter. In Ningbo, there are probably five or six KFC outlets, and all of them seem to be thriving. Prices are not exorbitantly high, so middle class kids can buy themselves a meal without going broke. One can always buy a $0.25 soft serve ice cream cone if he can’t afford more.

We went to KFC with Yvonne and Cecily one afternoon, and the place was crowded. We found a table and had a small meal with them while we practiced some Chinese and they practiced some English. The experience was fine. It seemed like the inside of any KFC (or McDonalds, or Taco Bell, or Wendy’s), except that surrounding us were Chinese people and language. We haven’t been back. Yet.

posted by Tony  # 6:37 AM
The rest of our mountain trip...
I am very fortunate I have been taking a ton of photographs from our trips because I take so long to actually write them down. Now that I have referenced my photos, I remember that we piled back into our cars (we were a gang of 10, remember?) and headed further into the mountains. This was an interesting situation. We drove on a very new road that was concrete—not the cheaper blacktop that we Americans use for our back roads—but only one and a half lanes wide. This was apparently a village-level road. And we passed through a smaller village but kept going, following a stream up into the mountains.

When I say mountains, I should clarify that I really mean hills in the shape of mountains. These are probably about 1000 feet high, at the most. They are different from the mountains we think of, maybe like the foothills of the Appalachians. But the mountains in this area are neat because they just jut up from flat land, and are always covered in green (except when they have been denuded by a quarry—in which case you often just see the contour of half a mountain and a big blonde cliff where it abruptly ends).

We are climbing further into this range of mountains, and we stop and pick up a man, seemingly randomly, from the side of the road. He will be our guide. I say seemingly randomly because I am frequently a bit confused at why things are happening. Usually this is because of the language barrier, but even when we are with someone who can speaks English, I don’t always get my questions answered. Or more likely, they don’t know. I believe that a big problem/issue with China, where there really are no legitimate organizations (until recently) other than the government, if the government doesn’t bother explaining something to the populace, there are not institutions to fill that gap. How old is the drum tower? No one knows, because the government never found it necessary to tell everyone. Is there actually an English TV station in Ningbo? No one knows, and no one knows who to ask to find out. So I’ve become accustom to not knowing big things, and not pressing on smaller things, because often even if there is an answer, it would take too long for it to be explained to me. Was this guide pre arranged? Beats me. I never asked.

Strangely, this has become a part of my identity here. There are times when something crazy happens, or something is done for no apparent reason, and I don’t ask questions. I actually don’t want it to be explained to me. I prefer to be in the dark. I think this may be partly because I am so accustomed to peppering someone with questions and asking “Why,” that when it becomes impossible, instead of becoming irate about not knowing, I cope with this reality by preferring not to know why at times.

Back to the mountains. We got out of our cars and started gleefully picking these berries at the side of the road. They were very similar to raspberries but better, with a vague hint of rosewater. Maybe I just think that because they are new. New and exciting! And unheard of in the West! After we picked berries for a few minutes, someone looked at his cell phone and noticed that there was no signal! This was a big event, and everyone else looked at their phones to confirm that, indeed, we were out of reach of the antennas. Sometimes I think that China has successfully made parts of the country more modern than even the United States.

We drove for a few more kilometers along this stream and then headed up a path behind a mill on the side of the road. On the side of the path we found a few wild cherries, sour and sweet, smaller than our domestic versions and the tree in front of my parents’ house, but much larger than the cherries we find in the north woods of Wisconsin. This was the reason for the current hike. But there was a larger supply ahead, so we kept walking. Also along the way, we passed small groves of bamboo. The plants were only as wide as a cane fishing pole, and frequently not even that large. It was early-mid-spring, so the new shoots were sprouting. These are the good parts that you can cook and eat. So as we came across the shoots that were less than a foot and a half tall, we snapped them at the base and took them with us. By the end of the hike Erica and I had a nice bundle, enough for a meal, once peeled and stir fried.

We stopped at a tree as our guide pointed out wild plums and at a vine where he pointed out wild kiwis. Both were far from ripe. We did come across another fruit tree whose name escapes me. It had garnet-colored fruits, the shape of a tiny kiwi, with a thin skin. It had a large seed on the inside, and we ate many of these from the branches that hung over a small creek. But it was a few dozen meters further up the mountain (all of us stumbling along in our city shoes and our guide’s 10-year-old son—did I mention he had a son?—carrying a long curved blade of a knife/machete) where we finally found the cherry trees. There were three or four trees in the area, each loaded with ripe cherries, but most of the berries were in the canopy, 15 or so feet above. While a few of us made grasps for the low hanging fruit (I like that phrase when used outside actual fruit-picking, and it is extra fun to use it in its original context), our guide took his knife and started hacking at one of the trunks, which was just small enough for me to wrap my hands around and touch index fingers and thumbs. A few minutes later, he put his foot onto the lower trunk and yanked at the top half, pulling the entire tree down. This is why Erica felt like we were living a scene out of the Great Gatsby. Since I’ve never read that book, I thought more about George Washington and just utter decadence.

But since the tree was already felled, it would have been even worse not to harvest our largesse. So we picked cherries for a long time, while our guide’s son ineffectively tried to fell another tree. I was grateful for that. Craigpony, sensing some of my uncomfortableness with the situation, tried to maintain that this was actually healthy for the forest. “New cherry trees will grow in its place and next year there will be even more cherries,” he claimed. That sounded suspiciously like G.W. Bush logic to me. Healthy Forests Initiative my behind! But all in all, I didn’t feel all that bad. We were pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Their cell phones weren’t even working!

So we headed back to the car and drove further into the mountains to try to pick some more bamboo shoots. The next town up apparently had a grove that was great for it. I had definitely learned to go with the flow on this trip. We pulled into this small town, which was really off the beaten path, and immediately one of our companions started taking pictures of a toothless old lady who was staring intently and confusedly at us. Erica and I were maybe the first foreigners she’d ever seen. Someone talked to someone and it turned out that we were way too late to pick the bamboo shoots, because they are picked in the morning. It is a neat cycle, the bamboo shoots sprouting over night and being picked in the morning. I believe if they are not picked the same day they break the surface, they get too big and tough to be edible, but I might have just made that up.

So since there was no bamboo to be bought, it was decided (I also admit I have had no idea who was calling the shots for any of our stay in Yiwu) that we should spend a few minutes staring at the locals while they stared at us. I snuck a picture of a few and felt bad about it later. Then we piled back into the cars and headed to our next stop.

Surprise! We were going to a tea plantation! This was indeed exciting. We fell out of the car (still sitting four in the back) and met the owner of this tea factory, who was friends with our host. In fact it was an organic tea plantation, internationally certified and such! We donned plastic shoe covers and he showed us the factory where the leaves were dried and sorted into their fancy tea. Inside, we watched as lots of shaking, sifting, and stirring was going on in order to get the best part of the tea sorted out. We all stuck our hands into the tea leaves with abandon, sifting, breaking, and smelling the leaves and nodding our heads that this was indeed good tea. The other large room had a floor full of recently harvested leaves in a big green pile. They are fairly mundane looking leaves, a little waxy, but nothing special. These were heated over a coal fed fire, which made me smile. Our first view of the factory had been of a half-dozen smokestacks spewing the black smoke typical of coal furnaces. Organic does not mean coal-free.

We took a walk through the neatly manicured tea rows. They are a common sight here, grown on the sides of hills in unusually neat rounded rows, as though someone had skillfully trimmed them with clippers that very morning.

The best tea comes from the youngest leaves of the new buds of the tea plant,. This plantation had invested in black screens that limited the amount of light that could filter onto the plant (like the ginseng farms in Northern Wisconsin). We were told that this increased the chlorophyll in the leaves, which makes a better tea. Beats me if it works (my unrefined Western palate, deadened by spices and dairy and, of course, coffee, for so many years has left me unable to discern a difference), but the tea is expensive and it sells.

We bought a few tins of the tea for our Chinese teachers and headed homewards, but looking at the clock it was determined that it was dinner time! So we stopped at what seemed like an oasis of a restaurant, small and surrounded by nothing. A few minutes later, they were carting out the food. It was an average meal, meaning excellent. The food in this area (including Ningbo) do tend to be heavy on the oil, which is off-putting to some, but to me, fat = flavor! Seriously, though, the heaviness of the food does get to me sometimes, but since we cook the majority of our own food at home—frequently using a tiny percentage of the oil in a native dish for our rendition—it isn’t an issue for us when we go out. Erica thinks she has gained some weight, but without a scale, we don’t really know. If she has, it isn’t much.

The ten of us managed to make a sizeable dent in the food we ordered, and this immediately made some of the members of our posse concerned—one cannot hold a legitimate banquet in China without comically over-ordering—so we ordered a few more dishes. Among these dishes are the occasionally heard of, though seldom seen, silkworm larvae. I had to sample them, and unlike many of these strange foods that I don’t find unobjectable, these I did. They tasted really dirty. Craigpony popped them rapid-fire into his mouth, happily explaining that they were protein. I agreed with that, but it was not rationale enough to keep eating them. I am not sure what to call them, because they are at that in between point post-caterpillar, pre moth. It that point when their bodies are all squishy and rearranging themselves. Not really anything. Perhaps larvae is the best term for them.

From here, we almost were finished, but the next morning before we left we were whisked away to a leather/luggage store. Since Yiwu is known worldwide as a commodity center, we had been peppered all weekend with questions about what we wanted to buy. Under pressure, I admitted that I was considering a new wallet (mine is a bit too small for the big Chinese 100RMB bills). So here we were, ready to buy me a wallet. They marked prices were a little expensive for what I wanted (about $20 apiece), but the store owner was a friend of our host and I was happy to patronize his shop as a favor to our host. Plus I figured they’d give us a discount. They pressured us to buy one for Erica. Fine. This wasn’t really all that much money anyways… but then they pulled a fast one. Of course they were not going to actually let us pay for this! We insisted, but they always win. And then the shop owners were able to show how much they loved our host and refused to let him pay, further improving his image in our eyes. The nerve! But we meekly caved into their plans.

When we got back, we bought a small piece of pork, and stir fried it with our bamboo shoots and wild cherries, with a little rice wine and pepper for seasoning. It was one of my favorite meals we’ve had here so far, probably because we picked two-thirds of it.

That was the trip. It was quite an experience. Now that I have this out of my way, I can write about other things, like what I have been doing for the past month…

posted by Tony  # 6:36 AM

Friday, June 04, 2004

We've been blessed with visitors for the past week! Very nice, yet it has rendered me too busy/tired/hungover to type much. And I have been lazy/grappling with long-term life decisions more than I'd like. So here is a ltitle more from Yiwu, super late but potentially somewhat interesting.

A mountain visit and a mountain meal.

Back to our shenanigans. The next morning we had a similar breakfast to the day before (I stuck with the dumplings and such, avoiding the true breakfast items) and drove off for a day in the mountains! Sabrina had floated the idea of going to pick bamboo shoots early in the trip, and of course I jumped on it. So another posse headed into the mountains for the day. First we drove to a temple which was famous.

This was up a mountain that had recently been accessible only via many, many steps, but we were able to drive up a new switchbacking road that had clearly been carved into the mountainside very recently. While the rest of the mountain was green and vigorous, the area around the road was freshly defoliated, pinkish-orange earth exposed without even the beginnings of regrowth.

Up to the temple we went. Erica and I and resisted efforts to get us to pretend to pray in front of one of the Buddha statues for photo ops. We climbed down and I posed with a parked tractor-truck, which, essentially, was an old-style motor strapped onto four wheels with a truck bed and a cab to ride in.

On the way down the mountain we Josh mentioned he had decided Josh was a boring name. He wanted to change his name (not uncommon). He asked me for some English names I liked. He wasn't too hot on Archibald, so I suggested other names... Ben, Craig, Dan, Joe, so forth. And so he picked Craig. Craig is a hard word for Chinese to say, for the don't have that unvocalized final consonant ‘g’, as it nor do they have "cr" together. It sounded like C-raig-uh when he tried to say it.

After a few minutes of practicing his new name, he decided that perhaps he didn't want to be a Craig after all. "I have decided to be called Craigpony!" He announced to us. We were a bit surprised, to say the least. But he clarified, "Pony, that means small horse, right?" Sure. Craigpony may have taken inspiration from my explanation how my full name is Anthony but Tony is what they call me, or maybe he just pulled it out of thin air. Anyhow, that is what we called him for the remainder of the trip.

It was time for lunch, though, so we stopped at the rustic restaurant at the base of the mountain. Everyone else had cleared out though the floor left signs of their presence—the owner swept piles of sunflower seed hulls and bones past a coop of chickens (inside) and a few lazy dogs. We were here in the mountains to eat mountain food, and they did not let us down. Here was our meal:

Spicy home-raised chicken soup
roasted peeled potatoes
fried-stirred little river fish
skinny bamboo shoots with cured pork
the insides of soybeans and scallions in a mush
braised lotus root
stir fried froglegs
tofu skins
string beans with dried salted vegetable
peas
wild celery
dry fried small green peppers

They were excellent. The home-raised chicken soup was the topic of much discussion, and our companions generally agreed that it as tastier than normal, factory/farm raised chickens. There was no commentary about the earth-friendliness of the chicken, just about taste.

Chinese generally have different tastes when it comes to animal products. They are not put off by squishy or rubbery things the way that we Westerners are. On many occasions we have been offered or found on our plate various foods that would never be served in that manner in the US. For dinner the other day we had fried chicken cartilage, which was crunchy like chicken cartilage. Chicken feet, basically cartilage and skin with really no meat on them, are consumed very frequently. Chicken skin and pork fat are very popular steamed.

At this meal, the chicken was plucked and gutted, but otherwise served whole. I was ladled a wing, which was very tasty. Although I have been able to adapt somewhat to this “focus on the taste and not the texture or the fat content,” technique of eating, I still only ate about half of the stewed skin and left the wing tip pretty much alone. Craigpony noticed this and asked if I had not liked the chicken. I explained to him that I liked the chicken very much but that we typically like the meat more than the skin. He replied that for him it was just the opposite. He would much rather eat the skin than the meat.

Perhaps the only really crispy fatty thing you get here is Peking Duck, where the skin is crispy and good, served with thin pancakes, plum sauce, and scallions. I still don’t know what they do with the rest of the bird—it never makes it to the table.

posted by Tony  # 11:35 PM

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